Tuesday, November 13, 2018
We are done
The riding is done. 4500 km. No falls. Very few incidents. The bikes will be collected in about an hour. We head for Punta Arenas airport tomorrow... Homeward bound.
Re-group
Whenever we lose sight of too many riders we will find a point to stop and wait to check that all are ok. There haven't been many better spots than here. As usual, all were well and we rode on.
Torres del Paine
There are too many awesome shots from today's beautiful ride through Torres del Paine, including seeing two Puma about 200m away from us on their own Pride Rock - bonus - (not shown on Chris's itinerary.)
Monday, November 12, 2018
Puerto Natales
We have arrived in Puerto Natales but the weather is poor and forecast to get worse so we will use our spare day tomorrow to ride Torres del Paine. Instead we are off to find good coffee, and a gin distillery. 😊
Farmstay
Last night we stayed at a really cool old farming station. 12,000 hectares but only 5,000 sheep and 600 Llamas. A grand old property built by an English couple in 1891. The descendants make more from tourism visits now.
Sunday, November 11, 2018
Some don't like gravel roads
These muggins overtook us on the gravel road. We were traveling at 80-100kph. They weren't good with corners. This was the result. Sam helped one who was stuck in the back. Dr Jen checked them all out; shock was obvious but otherwise ok. Then we rode away to leave them with their embarrassment because we had a ferry to catch.
Fisherman
We found an old fisherman that Chris met in the same spot 8 years ago. We gave him some NZ products and he responded by giving us a fishing fly each.
Porvenir Coast
We are headed North from Rio Grande, mostly on gravel roads, back across the border (I've lost count of how many times I've been to Argentina and Chile) and on to the ferry in Porvenir across the Magellan Strait.
Saturday, November 10, 2018
Our first flatty
We have done really well with no flat tyres and broken bikes so far, but today or luck ran out. The good news is that it was slow leak so we kept popping up until we reached Rio Grande and a tree ship. Now fixed.
End of the road
Yesterday I said we were at the bottom of the world. Well, as Bluff is to Invercargill, there is an end of the road a little South West of Ushuaia, so we went there through a beautiful national park. And, thankfully the weather has changed from snow to sun.
Prison
So, I've done time in Alcatraz and now in the Presidio Terra Del Fuego in Ushuaia. They look similar but this one would be easy worse in its bitterly cold winter climate (not that if have much sympathy). The Presidio has become a cool museum and art centre.
Thursday, November 8, 2018
New friends
We found some fellow motorcyclists (American, Brazilian and Uruguayan) to drink with plus a couple of Aussies back from the Antarctic. It was fun how quickly people clicked into social interaction.
Ushuaia
After a day of sun, then strong winds, then rain, capped off with 30 minutes of snow we have arrived at the bottom of South America, Ushuaia. After hundreds of kilometres of wide open plains over the past two days we again have a backdrop of high mountains. The bloated midriff wasn't pies and cakes but 4 jackets on!
Wednesday, November 7, 2018
Waiting II
Waiting on the ferry, across the Magellan channel. The current was so strong it's hard to believe old sailing ships came through here.
Petrol, always more petrol
Today we rode 525km and the tanks are only good for about 300km so you're always on the search for petrol stations.
Shipwreck
An old shipwreck caught our attention. There are holes in it from target practice, probably for those heading to fight in the Falklands. There are heaps of signs still claiming Las Malvinas es Argentina's!
Monday, November 5, 2018
El Calafate
We are now in El Calafate for two nights. It is very clearly a Queenstown for of town; heaps of cars, buses, tourists, eating outlets and things to do. We are off to see a glacier tomorrow.
BMW F800
Heading for El Calafate, in the sun again. These BMW F800 bikes have been excellent for this ride with its combination of highway, gravel and a couple of tracks. (As long as you keep them upright because they are very heavy once more than 15 degrees off centre.
More Butch Cassidy
We saw Butch Cassidy's house the other day. Did I load that? Today we stopped at a hotel he spent three days at resting after robbing an Argentinian bank.
More gravel roads
The snow passed but the gravel roads continued. They're actually pretty good condition and ready to roll along at 80-100kph.
Early lunch
So we took over a local petrol station to refill and eat or self supplied lunch. We bought good coffee and cakes from them. They were happy enough because they took photos of us. 😊
Back on the road
Heading South again to El Calafate along some more gravel roads (75% of trip so far). The sun is out, what could possibly go wrong?