Thursday, August 1, 2013

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail (we will try to integrate photos later when confident about wifi etc)

On some rare occasions, regardless of ones language of choice, the words simply don't exist to accurately match the emotions that one feels.

The day, hour and minute that we stepped through Inti Punku (the sun gate, entry to Machu Picchu) was such an occasion.

Our group of 13, plus guides, now good friends, from NZ, Canada and the US (and Peru in the case of the guides) hugged in satisfaction at completing a difficult four day 'hike' and simultaneously searching for adjectives and cameras. The cameras were found, and used, but no single word, or short combination of words seemed to accurately summarise the emotions combined with the initial view of Machu Picchu.

The group was definitely not speechless, especially not 'Doc', our most colourful character,  but the conversation of awe was lengthy, repetitive and for me a pleasure to listen to because it represented the combined excitement and relief of those who walked the trail and enjoyed each others company over the past week.

When we looked at some of the hills, on approach, anxiety always rose about our potential to reach each summit, so you can imagine the multiple points of relief and cumulative joy as each was ticked off, and then the finish line crossed.

Many people seem to have walking the Inca Trail on a bucket list. I am here because I enjoy participating in the great outdoors with friends and family. Regardless of the motivation the Inca Trail is indeed a very special 'journey' and we all feel very pleased that we have completed it.

The walk, or hike as our new friends like to describe it, is undoubtedly hard work, and it is extra-ordinary that any civilisation would choose to base significant parts of their society amongst such steep country, but with some training (or not? - Ed) a wide range of people can complete the Inca trail.

At times modest fitness and or the altitude (13,775 feet at the high point and mostly above 10,000), combined with climbs so steep only stairs enable passage, many of us progressed with no surplus of oxygen to participate in conversations with fellow walkers!

We often commented that for two days we walked and slept at an altitude above the peak of Mt Cook. As it happens, our days in Cusco had prepared us well and R, M & K all felt pretty good during the week.

Our guides, and the porters, were quite outstanding in their leadership, assistance, cooking and accommodation. Indeed, 'Benny's' cooking on the trail was better than our restaurant meals once we got back to the local township of Machu Picchu Pueblo, and he achieved all this from a modest green nylon tent!

Speaking of tents, travellers of the world will have experienced many different toilets. Those who complete the Inca Trail can add the 'micro tent bano's' to the list! 

Ron was confident the porters' got a better deal with respect to the loos, assuming they got the 'porta-loos', while we got the tents!

The guides are clearly very proud of their Inca history, and almost never mention the Spanish history, other than to describe their destructive approach. The don't say this just for tourism sake, history is what it is; they clearly feel more attached to the pre Spanish history of Peru (and other Countries on the West side of South America).

The many ancient ruins are impressive and do leave viewers contemplating the achievements of the people who built them and asking many questions of the guides. Our photos will lead to many more conversations when we get home, but we all felt a need to read more also, to fill in many of the gaps of knowledge, having now seen and touched these ancient structures.

By day 4 we all thought that uphill was all behind us, until the guides asked, 'have we told you about the 'Oh My God' stair case? You could see the colour drain from many cheerful faces.

Peruvians have a sense of humour, a little like our own, teasing us for the next few kilometres, because the OMG steps were indeed steep, but there were only 57 of them and we could see the top, from the bottom, which hadn't always been the case over previous days.

So happy were we to see this achievable, final, rise, that we all climbed them in one push and 'Doc' decided to run. We timed him at 23 seconds. Unsatisfied he went back down without his pack and ran again; 16.8seconds! Our guide, who by now thought we were mad tourists accepted the challenge and ran up also; 16.7 seconds, honour retained (Doc was gutted and insisted on a third run, but we assured him no further challenge was required to gain respect).

Unlike some walkers who faded a bit over the week, I think 'the Kiwi's' actually got stronger each day and we finished the walk confidently, and more than a little satisfied with our effort.

We had a good group of walkers who were a pleasure to be with, including three Jim's (James'). One prefers to go by Jamie, so that was easy. Jim suited another quite well, so it was his call sign. The third is a Doctor (radiology), hence 'Doc'.

Doc is a hyperactive, talkative guy who would always be interacting with the person, or persons within his range. Our group seemed to sub-consciously shuffle forward and back as if to share to load of listening along the trail. For such a vibrant, intelligent person, Doc made some unusual decisions - leaving wet sweaty gear out on top of his tent to dry overnight in minus 2 degrees Celsius!, running down steep descents to try and match the speed of the porters, taking high risks with his own ankles - but I like him on the basis that he was very generous with his medical assistance when people were unwell, carried other people's gear when they were struggling and was always a conversation starter (even if he then remained at the centre of each conversation!)

We will all get to tell you more about the members of our group when we get home, but we enjoyed each others company all week which made the trip very enjoyable when combined with the achievement of the walk itself.

Marie will be pleased to hear that Barry (from Sausalito, San Francisco) recommends the North end of Kauai, Hawaii, for the next holiday! For now we have climbed enough mountains and I think he is right.

There is so much more to say, later, but my attempt at a few highlight words for our week on the Inca Trail are: achievement, people and location, all preceded by the word 'special'.

Now we move on to Puno, via Cusco.


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