Thursday, August 8, 2013

Valparaiso

Today R & M had a day tour to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, on the coast, West of Santiago.

The weather has improved, no rain, is still a little grey, and because it is winter the place didn't have the buzz we expect it must have in summer.

Our driver was excited about the area but we found it hard to match his excitement.

Our driver also told us about the limited number of dangerous animals and insects of the area, concluding that the most dangerous animal he knew of was his mother in law!

You can see who has the power in this area: the Navy! They dominate all the best areas and buildings, even more than Catholic Churches, for the first time.


It is also a very busy commercial port, which is good to see. We hoped that some of this economic growth would eventually lead to more upgrades for some of the excellent, but tatty, architecture in the area.


We had another $30,000 meal, which was worth about $300, and then headed to the airport, where we are now.



Observe R's beer (cheers to K & B), and my orange juice!

See you all soon.

R & M

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Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Santiago day one

Ron and Mike were collected at 10am for their city tour. The constant, moderately heavy rain made sight seeing a little difficult, however, we wanted to get out for a look all the same.

During the driving we spoke to our driver about Chile and he generally gave us an optimistic reply about economics. He became a little more sensitive when I asked about the Pinochet era, but he remembered the black markets well, from the day, and claimed to have found his wife on such a black market! 'Bery expensive' (they have difficulty pronouncing V) he said; we advised him that wives were no cheaper elsewhere! :)

I also asked him about racism, or minorities that may be disliked in Chile. He replied that they do not have many black people, and have no problem with their presence, 'it's the Spanish we do not like!'. Mmm, we have heard this before.

Along the way we also observed a lot of graffiti, often on historic buildings which deserved more respect in our opinion. It is a worldwide problem, but sad to see, especially on certain structures. Next we passed a street demonstration, at the Plaza de Armas (most cities, town and villages seem to have one of these, plus several Catholic churches), by workers demanding more pay; 'just like NZ' we told him.




First stop, we went up to the top of the highest hill in the city, Cerro San Cristobal, where we were told that Pope John Paul II had once held a service for locals. Our driver told us there was virgin at the top of the hill, but he planned to stay in the car.

There is a Virgin Mary at the peak of this 'hill for tourists', which, with great care I note that Ron agreed to 'approach' her, so I could capture a photo (all for the purpose of good holiday records, of course).




With the virgin hunt over, and the rain still falling, we dashed back to the car, observing how slippery the rocks become with a little rain. We wondered how slow our descent may have been on the Inca Trail if we had encountered any rain.

Next on our list, before the driver ditched us, was a wine tasting visit to Concha y Toro, a vineyard that is clearly one of Chile's larger wine makers. We got to taste two wines and visit the cellar (Casillero del Diablo - named after the devil to scare away wine thieves it seems to us).

It was interesting, and the wine was nice, but the tour was a wee bit like a message and process delivered by recording and we only got our guide off the subject a couple of times as we tried to make it more personal. It seemed that he was on a '15 minute' precise schedule to me, but he got the job done.

We didn't want to carry any wine home, or our gift glasses, so we may take a look in local wine stores when we get home.

Our driver then dropped us back to the Mercado Central de Santiago (the market) which has many eating spots around what looks to be mostly a fish market. The lunch we had was excellent, although it is the first time either of us had spent in excess of $28,000 (Pesos) on a meal.








After lunch, we put on our experienced underground users hats and took on the Metro to be back to our hotel, reasoning that it would be both cheaper and faster than using a taxi (the traffic is dense and mostly operates in a confused state, a little like the rest of central and southern America.

Our 'Espanol for being polite' was insufficient to convince the lady behind the ticket window to sell us a ticket. So a quick trip to the service office yielded help. Habla Ingles por favour? Everyone pointed at the girl in the corner. She kindly helped us back at the ticket office, and away we went. The Santiago metro is almost exactly the same as others around the world, save two aspects: the ticket machine had no English or image based process and the Metro runs on tyres, not rails.

We are back at the hotel now, may yet go out for a meal, but then seek more sleep before visiting Valparaiso tomorrow, then catching a late flight out, bound for home.

We may not encounter wifi again tomorrow as we return directly from the coast to the airport. Maybe at the lounge? We will see.

If not, we hope you are all warm, and well. Look forward to seeing you soon.
R&M

Santiago, Chile

The weather guy, AKA, our guide/driver, was correct with his forecast.

It is raining!

Jackets out for the first time since they provided seating at one shady area of Machu Picchu. We are not going to let a little water stop us.




Ron has grabbed a local map and Ainsley will be pleased to learn that his first question was 'where is the nearest shopping district' (por favor, of course).

Donder estar las tiendas del diamondos? (I'm sure that's what I heard him say).

I'll make sure he finds the expensive shops!

R also received a text from Katie, safely in Paris, albeit a little behind schedule, and then one to confirm she was almost home.

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Tuesday, August 6, 2013

On our way home

We have had a great time together, especially, for me, the Inca Trail which was a combination of the hardest effort and the best highs, if you'll excuse the 14,000 foot pun. But now we are all looking forward to getting home.

Yesterday was one of doing as little as possible, moving from our rooms, to breakfast, to our books, to lunch, a brief kayak across the bay, back to our books, a little drink, then dinner, then back to bed again. It was nice not to be rushing around.

We each commented that as nice as the island had been, our chef on the Inca Trail, operating out of a tent, had delivered better meals. Mind you, his meals had been better than many during our trip, even if we discounted it a little for being starving and hugely grateful for food during a hard days walking.

The place we stayed at is at the top of the hill in this photo (the beach front place can be hired too). The blue skies tell a nice tale about warmth in the direct sun, but the climate was quite cool as soon as you move to the shade. This island is at 12,500 feet above sea level so walking up the stairs from the beach to the bar was still hard work!
Today was a day of travel, leaving Isla Suasi on our own private launch to return to the 'mainland' which you can see in the background.
With life jackets branded 'Titanic'!

After crossing the small channel between the island and the mainland Lucho drove us, by bus, the two hours up to Juliaca airport. I think the distance was probably only 80-100km but by the time you slow for sheep, alpacas, locals, and what Katie described as a perpetual state of road repair and realignment our average speed would barely have been 50kph.

Another very interesting behaviour that you notice travelling through rural Peru is the communities strong desire to paint the sides of the houses with the brands, colours, logos and names of the politicians they support. 'Lucho a presidente' (not our bus driver), even Elvis was back kand standing for election in the region near the beginning of the Inca Trail (free peanut butter and deep fried banana sandwiches for all? - Ed). Can you imagine painting the side of your house with 'John Key or David Shearer for PM?

There was so much of it visible I doubt that political pollsters could set up business here. There would be no need for such 'discovery'.

We flew to Lima together but from there we had to issue final hugs as Katie headed North to Paris and Ron and Mike headed South to Santiago, with two days to kill before their connecting flights home.

Whilst waiting at the airport Mike visited Starbucks for a coffee, and a name change:
As I write we are in Santiago, with respectable wifi speed at the hotel. 

Tomorrow and the next day are filled with local tours to fill the daylight hours and then we fly out late on Thursday local time, getting home early on Saturday NZ time. The local guide said to expect rain tomorrow, something we have not seen since we arrived about 18 days ago, which has made for easy progress for us, especially on the Inca Trail which would have even more demanding, if wet.

We look forward to seeing you all at our various homes and then displaying many of our photos, which may one day include some that our Inca Trail 'friends' proposed to share over the weeks ahead.

Monday, August 5, 2013

Isla Suasi and lake Titicaca

It transpires that Isla Suasi does have wifi, but only around the couches near reception and it is not fast enough to upload photos (without remarkable patience), so I am pleased I put a few up from my phone yesterday.

We awoke this morning, yet again at a silly hour (5.30am), to hastily scoff some of the Buffett breakfast at the Casa Andina hotel in Puno, then rushed out on to their private jetty to board a moderate sized boat which would take across lake Titicaca to Isla Suasi.

Lake Titicaca is very large so the journey across takes several hours, but included two tourist stops during which we met a President and a Mayor.

Firstly, we stopped at Isla Uros, a floating island made of reeds, we were introduced to the President who kindly explained how they made their island, their homes, their utilities and how to stop their island simply floating away (or being stolen). No, we didn't ask for photos with the president because with a total population to govern of only 35, and annual recycling of the role, we wonder if he had just been the slowest to keep his head down at the last elections.

The ladies wore very bright colours, all looked better fed than the surroundings implied, but were most hospitable to us and minimised the feeling I had of imposing ourselves on their tiny village, all in the aid of tourism dollars. We were pleased to learn that our tour paid them 5 soles per guest to reduce the pressure to buy things from the range of items available.

We then moved on the a larger, solid, island call Taquile where the local inhabitants described their lifestyle, danced for us, displayed some of the products they make and were generally very hospitable again. I did buy an item here because it was nice to see them being made in front of you, unlike many of the markets that we have visited west in Peru.

I think the photos of these colourfully dressed people will need to be displayed once we get home with our cameras because I do not expect to be in range of high speed wifi over the next few days, before getting home in the weekend.

Today we have a full day on Isla Suasi, and will for the first time sleep in (done), and fill our day at a slow rate, possibly including some kayaking, before packing our backs to head toward home tomorrow morning.

We are all looking forward to getting back home to family and partners.

  

Sunday, August 4, 2013

MP to Cusco and on to Puno

After our second night in Machu Picchu Pueblo (sometimes called Aguas Calientes in material) we boarded the same train that Becky used to return to Cusco, or in our case to Ollantaytambo where a bus connection took us back to the city.

It is a longer trip than you expect, around 3 hours, and it wasn't made any more enjoyable by the fact that Peru Rail turns the train ride into a fashion show with music to try and convince us to buy more Alpaca clothing! This was a bizarre situation where they tried to convince passengers to get up and dance and parade the clothes too. Best to just look out the window at the view and not catch their attention.

We got back to Cusco at 7.30pm, back to the same hotel, and immediately went back to the Museo del Pisco on the corner near us to try one or two more of their cocktails and their tapas menu. Both were excellent and continued the high quality food experience we have had when eating in Cusco.

Our waitress was both bilingual and witty when she explained that the more cocktails a customer has, the better their Spanish gets!

However, we didn't need too many as we were again up before the sun to catch our 10 hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno. None of us relished this thought, but it turned out to be OK because they stopped several times for scenic spots and lunch and this combined well with the opportunity to claim a couple of missing hours of sleep.

Rural housing is modest, but usually complete and well maintained, which I say because most housing in the cities and large towns look awful, usually in an unfinished state. We speculated that this ridiculous situation must relate to a tax incentive and our bus tour guide confirmed this for us. The problem is chronic in my view and displays very weak government policy behaviour along with very poor town planning, if they have local government structures too.

You can easily spot the tax free organisations by their completed buildings, witness churches, government buildings, sports structures and possibly the rural business sector. This tax distortion is a mad situation for Peru in my view.

We have arrived in Puno, which, like Juliaca city that we travelled through, looks 'interesting' to review, but wouldn't appeal to most of you as places to stay long. We are staying one night (done) and now head out to Isla Suasi (on lake Titicaca) for two sleeps before beginning our journeys home.

Katie travels on from Lima, once we get there, but Ron and I must wait in Santiago two more days for our connecting flights to NZ. I would be surprised if we have wifi on the island, so if not I'll load any new images or comments in the days ahead.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Bus Ride

Here are a few photos from our 10 hour(!) bus ride from Cusco to Puno.







I remember once my parents saying there are only so many churches one can visit, during a trip to Europe. I understand the point now, in this land of conquering Catholics.


More inca ruins South of Cusco.



Back above 4,000 metres on the pass between Cusco and Puno.



A carving from a civilisation said to date from 400BC in Pukara, still on our way to Puno.

As I write we are now in Puno, which is not the flashest town we have seen, and get up, yet again, at 5.30am to go out to Isla Suasi on Lake Titicaca.

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Thursday, August 1, 2013

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

The Inca Trail (we will try to integrate photos later when confident about wifi etc)

On some rare occasions, regardless of ones language of choice, the words simply don't exist to accurately match the emotions that one feels.

The day, hour and minute that we stepped through Inti Punku (the sun gate, entry to Machu Picchu) was such an occasion.

Our group of 13, plus guides, now good friends, from NZ, Canada and the US (and Peru in the case of the guides) hugged in satisfaction at completing a difficult four day 'hike' and simultaneously searching for adjectives and cameras. The cameras were found, and used, but no single word, or short combination of words seemed to accurately summarise the emotions combined with the initial view of Machu Picchu.

The group was definitely not speechless, especially not 'Doc', our most colourful character,  but the conversation of awe was lengthy, repetitive and for me a pleasure to listen to because it represented the combined excitement and relief of those who walked the trail and enjoyed each others company over the past week.

When we looked at some of the hills, on approach, anxiety always rose about our potential to reach each summit, so you can imagine the multiple points of relief and cumulative joy as each was ticked off, and then the finish line crossed.

Many people seem to have walking the Inca Trail on a bucket list. I am here because I enjoy participating in the great outdoors with friends and family. Regardless of the motivation the Inca Trail is indeed a very special 'journey' and we all feel very pleased that we have completed it.

The walk, or hike as our new friends like to describe it, is undoubtedly hard work, and it is extra-ordinary that any civilisation would choose to base significant parts of their society amongst such steep country, but with some training (or not? - Ed) a wide range of people can complete the Inca trail.

At times modest fitness and or the altitude (13,775 feet at the high point and mostly above 10,000), combined with climbs so steep only stairs enable passage, many of us progressed with no surplus of oxygen to participate in conversations with fellow walkers!

We often commented that for two days we walked and slept at an altitude above the peak of Mt Cook. As it happens, our days in Cusco had prepared us well and R, M & K all felt pretty good during the week.

Our guides, and the porters, were quite outstanding in their leadership, assistance, cooking and accommodation. Indeed, 'Benny's' cooking on the trail was better than our restaurant meals once we got back to the local township of Machu Picchu Pueblo, and he achieved all this from a modest green nylon tent!

Speaking of tents, travellers of the world will have experienced many different toilets. Those who complete the Inca Trail can add the 'micro tent bano's' to the list! 

Ron was confident the porters' got a better deal with respect to the loos, assuming they got the 'porta-loos', while we got the tents!

The guides are clearly very proud of their Inca history, and almost never mention the Spanish history, other than to describe their destructive approach. The don't say this just for tourism sake, history is what it is; they clearly feel more attached to the pre Spanish history of Peru (and other Countries on the West side of South America).

The many ancient ruins are impressive and do leave viewers contemplating the achievements of the people who built them and asking many questions of the guides. Our photos will lead to many more conversations when we get home, but we all felt a need to read more also, to fill in many of the gaps of knowledge, having now seen and touched these ancient structures.

By day 4 we all thought that uphill was all behind us, until the guides asked, 'have we told you about the 'Oh My God' stair case? You could see the colour drain from many cheerful faces.

Peruvians have a sense of humour, a little like our own, teasing us for the next few kilometres, because the OMG steps were indeed steep, but there were only 57 of them and we could see the top, from the bottom, which hadn't always been the case over previous days.

So happy were we to see this achievable, final, rise, that we all climbed them in one push and 'Doc' decided to run. We timed him at 23 seconds. Unsatisfied he went back down without his pack and ran again; 16.8seconds! Our guide, who by now thought we were mad tourists accepted the challenge and ran up also; 16.7 seconds, honour retained (Doc was gutted and insisted on a third run, but we assured him no further challenge was required to gain respect).

Unlike some walkers who faded a bit over the week, I think 'the Kiwi's' actually got stronger each day and we finished the walk confidently, and more than a little satisfied with our effort.

We had a good group of walkers who were a pleasure to be with, including three Jim's (James'). One prefers to go by Jamie, so that was easy. Jim suited another quite well, so it was his call sign. The third is a Doctor (radiology), hence 'Doc'.

Doc is a hyperactive, talkative guy who would always be interacting with the person, or persons within his range. Our group seemed to sub-consciously shuffle forward and back as if to share to load of listening along the trail. For such a vibrant, intelligent person, Doc made some unusual decisions - leaving wet sweaty gear out on top of his tent to dry overnight in minus 2 degrees Celsius!, running down steep descents to try and match the speed of the porters, taking high risks with his own ankles - but I like him on the basis that he was very generous with his medical assistance when people were unwell, carried other people's gear when they were struggling and was always a conversation starter (even if he then remained at the centre of each conversation!)

We will all get to tell you more about the members of our group when we get home, but we enjoyed each others company all week which made the trip very enjoyable when combined with the achievement of the walk itself.

Marie will be pleased to hear that Barry (from Sausalito, San Francisco) recommends the North end of Kauai, Hawaii, for the next holiday! For now we have climbed enough mountains and I think he is right.

There is so much more to say, later, but my attempt at a few highlight words for our week on the Inca Trail are: achievement, people and location, all preceded by the word 'special'.

Now we move on to Puno, via Cusco.


MP III more photos

This seems to work so here are a few more photos.






















This last shot is our 'more than satisfactory hotel' in AG.

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MP II photos

So, it transpires that wifi at the bar is much faster than the hotel. So, we had a vote and decided to stay at the bar a little longer, to upload more photos, for you, of course, being at the front of our thoughts!

























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Machu Picchu

Hi

Test upload from phone, in cafe, at Aguascalientes, post completion of the Inca Trail!




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